FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS
Frequently asked questions about flooring
Answers from the experts at Eastwood Flooring Supplies in Leigh-on-Sea.
Where can I install hardwood in my home?
Hardwood flooring can be installed in almost any room of the home due to the variety of products available and the choice of installation options. This said, due to moisture levels we would not recommend the use of hardwood floors for full bathrooms.
When deciding if your room is suitable for a hardwood floor, the grade should be taken into consideration. Hardwood flooring is perfect for above-ground rooms, such as living rooms and bedrooms, but is not recommended for below-ground rooms such as basements or cellars. This is due to potential moisture problems. Engineered flooring products are better choices for these areas.
Can I sand and refinish my hardwood floor?
Depending on the thickness of the hardwood, the floor can be sanded and refinished at least once and as many as three times or more. Please contact us for more details on your specific hardwood.
To refinish hardwood floors, make sure that the existing finish is completely sanded off, and that the floor is smoothed out and flattened. If necessary, repair work or filling can then be completed at this stage. Finally, a stain or finish can be applied.
When should I re-coat or refinish my hardwood floor?
If your lacquered floor is starting to look worn, dull or scratched it may be time to re-coat or refinish it.
To establish what your hardwood floor needs, pour two tablespoons of water onto it and watch what happens to the moisture.
If the water beads and does not soak into the wood, your floor only needs some cleaning, stain removal and a re-coat.
If you see that the water is slowly soaking into the wood over a few minutes, then the floor is partially worn and will need to be refinished soon. In the meantime, take extra care not to damage the floor.
If the water soaks right in, then the floor will require a full sand and refinish.
Once you have established what your floor needs, contact the flooring specialists at Eastwood Flooring Supplies Ltd to ensure that your flooring gets the attention of a professional.
Why does my hardwood floor have cracks and gaps?
Due to the natural shrinkage and expansion of wood over time, it is quite common for cracks and gaps to appear, especially with wider planks. Smalls gaps are not harmful to the floor and most will only appear at certain times of the year in response to moisture levels.
In winter, the interior humidity of your home will drop significantly as central heating dries out the air. This drop will cause wood to shrink. During the warmer months the humidity will rise, causing wood to expand.
If you are storing wood flooring prior to installation, make sure that this is near where the flooring is to be installed. This will ensure that the moisture content of the wood matches the location where it will be installed, preventing damage due to extreme fluctuations in humidity and temperature.
How do I protect my wood floor from furniture legs?
We supply felt pads of various sizes which protect wooden floors from becoming damaged by chair and bed legs.
For best results, ensure that the felt pads are cleaned regularly to ensure that any debris that could scratch the floor are removed. If you find that the felt pads are becoming flattened, replace them.
My original floor is bumpy and uneven, will I still be able to have a wood floor installed?
No matter the state of your original flooring, we will be able to install a wood floor as a suitable preparation will be applied prior to installation. This will ensure that the floor does not bounce and no large gaps appear.
Wood floor maintenance
An effectively maintained wood floor will last longer than a poorly maintained one, and reduce the need for sanding and re-finishing.
Before you begin any floor maintenance, check to see if your floor has been oiled or lacquered.
Maintenance of hard wax oiled floors
Maintenance of lacquered floors
Prevention is better than cure when it comes to wood floors, so to ensure your floor looks as good as it can; make sure that dirt and small particles aren’t being trafficked in. A good quality doormat at all external entrances will go a long way in trapping potentially harmful debris before it damages your floor.
Differences between oiled and lacquered floors
Oiled floors
Finishing oils are made of natural substances such as vegetable oils and waxes. They will nourish, seal and protect your floor.
The benefits of oiled floors
The oils saturate the floor, replacing lost moisture that could cause shrinkage as well as giving the floor a natural look and feel. Oils come in a vast variety of colours and can also be applied on top of another colour to personalise the look of the floor.
If the floor is damaged, the damaged area can be sanded and re-oiled. With correct maintenance, the floor may never need to be sanded unless you drastically wanted to change the colour.
Potential drawbacks
Oiled floors are generally not as hard wearing as lacquered floors. They may scratch or mark easier as the oil soaks into the wood, instead of sitting on the surface. They may only be cleaned with specific products as cleaning with standard cleaning products can discolour and wash away the oil.
Oiled floors need to be treated with maintenance oil every 6-12 months and just before the winter months. Under floor heating will dry out an oiled floor much quicker than usual so it will need to be treated more often.
Lacquered floors
Lacquered or varnished floors have a protective coating that feels like a little like plastic on top of the wood.
The benefits of lacquered floors
Lacquer is generally harder wearing than oil as the surface of the wood is protected by a protective film. As such, the maintenance required is much easier than with oil floors. You will simply need to clean and polish the floor when required. This kind of flooring works well with under floor heating as the moisture is not lost from the wood.
Potential drawbacks
Most lacquers are clear so additional stains will need to be used to achieve specific colours. Lacquer can sometimes look and feel synthetic as the coating sits on the surface, reflects light and is smooth to the touch. If the lacquer is damaged it cannot be spot fixed, the whole floor will need to be sanded and resealed.
Both types of flooring can be solid or engineered. Solid flooring is 100% of your chosen wood, for instance solid oak flooring is 100% oak wood. Engineered flooring can be either a cross-layer engineered board or a multi-ply engineered board. With advances in technology engineered flooring is becoming more and more desirable.
Wood grading explained
Prime / Select / AB Grade
This is the highest grade of wood flooring. Generally it will be free of large knots with some colour variation.
Character / BC / Classic
Sound and filled knots appear in this grade of wood, as well as some colour variation. Filled cracks maybe seen and variations in grain.
Rustic / CD / Country
Large knots, some filled cracks, sap wood and streaks may be present in this grade. Considerable colour variation can be seen, though this grade is more decorative as a result.
Surface treatments explained
Hand scraped
This gives a bumpy surface to each board. Each scrape is carried out by hand using traditional methods.
Distressed
The impression of age is given by creating dents and scrapes in the surface and sides of the boards. Each board is hand finished.
Brushed
Each board is mechanically brushed with a coarse wire brush which removes the top, softer grain from the board and leaving the harder grain raised by 1mm.
Embossed
Deeper version of brushing, to a depth of 3mm.
Smoked / Fumed
Smoking the wood alters the shade of the plank causing darker streaks throughout the boards.
Carbonised
Carbonising the wood darkens the boards all the way through and will give a much darker surface colour.
Installation
Installation methods
Floating
Wood planks are laid on a suitable surface and are glued together at the joints.
Secret nailed
Planks are nailed at an angle through the side of the board and into the sub floor.
Fully adhered
Planks and glued directly onto a suitable sub floor.
Board installation types
Engineered click
Boards click together at an angle and lock in place when pushed flat. No glue is required for this type of installation.
Engineered tongue & groove
Laid on an underlay, boards slot together and are glued along all sides to secure them. They can also be glued on nailed directly to a suitable sub floor.
Board lengths
Fixed lengths
All boards in a pack will be a set length.
Random lengths in box
Boards will come in an assortment of different lengths.
Split lengths in box
All boards are the same length, but some will be cut in half to allow staggering of boards when installed.